Ullswater Travel Guide

Ullswater — described by Wordsworth as "the most beautiful lake in England", winding like a serpentine fairway through the Cumbrian fells, the Lake District's third-largest lake and its most underrated treasure. Since 1859, century-old steamers have ploughed its mirror-like waters; in 1802, Wordsworth and his sister Dorothy saw "golden daffodils fluttering and dancing in the breeze" at Glencoyne Bay and wrote his immortal poem; Helvellyn's Striding Edge arête was voted Britain's favourite walk; Aira Force cascades 65 feet through ancient National Trust woodlands; and the lakeside path from Howtown to Pooley Bridge was hailed by Wainwright as "the most beautiful and worthwhile walk in Lakeland". This 2-day, 1-night classic tour includes a steamer cruise, Helvellyn climb, daffodil bay poetry hunt, Aira Force exploration, and Sharrow Bay's legendary afternoon tea.

1877
Oldest Steamer Built
950
Metres Helvellyn Elevation
20
Miles Ullswater Way Circuit
65
Feet Aira Force Drop
Ullswater Lake with steamer and Helvellyn mountain view
Ullswater
Winding like a serpentine fairway through the Cumbrian fells, century-old steamers plough its mirror-like waters, Helvellyn's arête stands sentinel in the distance — Wordsworth called it "the most beautiful lake in England".

Ullswater 2-Day, 1-Night Classic Tour

Cruise on a century-old steamer, climb Helvellyn via Striding Edge arête, find the daffodil bay that inspired Wordsworth, and explore Aira Force waterfall and an ancient stone circle.

Duration
2 Days / 1 Night
Main Destinations
Steamers, Glencoyne Bay (Daffodil Bay), Aira Force, Helvellyn, Striding Edge, Howtown, Pooley Bridge, Dalemain Estate
Suitable For
Hiking Enthusiasts, Literature Lovers, Nature Lovers, Families, Romantic Couples
Budget per Person
£80 - £200
01
Steam & Verse
Steamers · Glencoyne Bay (Daffodil Bay) · Aira Force · Howtown Lakeside Walk · Sharrow Bay Afternoon Tea
Highlights

Depart from Glenridding Pier in the morning aboard the "Lady of the Lake" — a century-old steamer built by Glasgow's Seath & Co. in 1877 (now diesel-powered, but retaining its wooden cabin and brass fittings in Victorian style), or choose "The Raven" (1889, once a royal yacht hosting Kaiser Wilhelm II). Single fare to Howtown takes about 30 minutes, to Pooley Bridge about 45 minutes, tickets £14.50-£19.50. Buy the "Sail & Stride" combo: sail to Howtown, then walk back along the eastern shore path — Wainwright called it "the most beautiful and worthwhile walk in Lakeland", about 7 miles (11 km) through oak and birch woods where red squirrels leap between branches, with pebble beaches hiding secret wild swimming spots. The route passes Glencoyne Bay — on 15 April 1802, Wordsworth and his sister Dorothy saw "golden daffodils fluttering and dancing in the breeze" here, inspiring "I wandered lonely as a cloud". The National Trust has placed a memorial seat. After disembarking, visit Aira Force — a 65-foot (20-metre) waterfall thundering through the ancient woodlands of Gowbarrow Park, with a stone arch bridge spanning the falls, surrounded by 19th-century ornamental laurels and rhododendrons. Follow Aira Beck upstream to connect with the Ullswater Way. In the evening, check in at Sharrow Bay — founded in 1948 by Francis Coulson as "England's first country house hotel", its lakeside terrace commanding panoramic lake views. The legendary six-course afternoon tea, which started at 2 shillings and sixpence, remains the Lake District's most refined ritual. Or dine at Inn on the Lake as the setting sun turns Helvellyn gold and crimson.

Attractions
Ullswater Steamers
Operating since 1859 with four vessels: the oldest "Lady of the Lake" (1877), "The Raven" (1889, once a royal yacht), "Lady Dorothy" (2001) and "Lady Wakefield" (2007). From Glenridding to Howtown (£14.50 single/£19.50 return) or Pooley Bridge (£16 single/£22 return). You can hop off mid-way to walk and reboard later — the classic "Sail & Stride" experience. On-board bar, toilets and open deck. Dogs welcome.
Aira Force
A 65-foot (20-metre) National Trust waterfall in the ancient woodlands of Gowbarrow Park. A stone arch bridge spans the falls, planted with 19th-century ornamental laurels, rhododendrons and redwoods. Follow Aira Beck upstream to connect with the Ullswater Way. One of the best areas for spotting red squirrels. Free entry (NT member parking free, non-members £5/car). Note: some paths may be closed 2025-2026 due to landslide repairs; check the NT website before visiting.
Glencoyne Bay (Daffodil Bay)
On 15 April 1802, Wordsworth and his sister Dorothy saw "golden daffodils fluttering and dancing in the breeze" on this lakeshore, inspiring "I Wandered Lonely as a Cloud" — the most famous daffodil poem in English literature. The National Trust has placed a memorial seat and information panel. Each spring from late March to April, wild daffodils still bloom along the shore as the poem describes. About 1.5 miles west of Glenridding along the Ullswater Way. Free entry.
Sharrow Bay Country House Hotel
Founded in 1948 by Francis Coulson as "England's first country house hotel", its lakeside terrace commands the most spectacular afternoon tea views in the Lake District. The legendary six-course afternoon tea started at 2 shillings and sixpence; today it includes smoked trout, Cumberland ham, handmade scones with clotted cream, and Lakeland cakes with proper English tea. 24 rooms decorated in "luxurious yet homely" style, each overlooking the lake. Afternoon tea £35-£55/person, accommodation £180-£380/night. Advance booking recommended weeks ahead.
Practical Info
Accommodation
  • Sharrow Bay (England's first country house hotel, lake view)
  • Inn on the Lake (Glenridding lakeside 4-star)
  • Another Place (modern resort on Ullswater's west shore)
  • YHA Helvellyn Youth Hostel
Food Recommendations
  • Sharrow Bay Legendary Afternoon Tea
  • Fellbites (Glenridding village café)
  • Helvellyn Country Kitchen (local ingredients)
  • Travellers Rest (traditional Cumberland sausages)
Travel Tips
  • Book steamer tickets online in advance during peak season
  • Howtown has no car park; accessible only by steamer
  • Daffodils best in late March to April
  • Sharrow Bay afternoon tea needs weeks of advance booking
02
Arête & Manor
Helvellyn · Striding Edge · Swirral Edge · Dalemain Estate · The Cockpit Stone Circle · Departure
Highlights

Set off at dawn from Glenridding to climb Helvellyn — at 950 metres, England's third highest peak, via Striding Edge arête, voted "Britain's Favourite Walk". The classic circular route is 13 km (8 miles), 6-7 hours, sustained ascent, Grade 1 scramble (requires climbing technique and head for heights). Follow Mires Beck uphill to the "Hole-in-the-Wall" gap for a breather, continue past Bleaberry Crag to the start of Striding Edge — a broad ridge that narrows to a knife-edge arête with sheer drops of hundreds of metres on both sides, culminating in the 7-metre "The Chimney" rock descent. At the summit, the vast plateau of Helvellyn (trig point marking 950 metres) offers panoramic views across the entire Lake District on clear days. Descend via Swirral Edge (shorter but steeper), passing Red Tarn back to Glenridding. This is a serious mountain route for experienced walkers only — check the Mountain Weather Information Service, carry navigation equipment, and never attempt in high winds or icy conditions. In the afternoon, drive 10 minutes to Dalemain Estate — the Hasell family home since 1679, blending Medieval, Tudor and Georgian architecture, with RHS award-winning gardens famous for Himalayan blue poppies (Meconopsis), 200 varieties of roses and ancient apple trees. Each spring it hosts the World's Original Marmalade Awards, with over 2,000 entries. House & Garden combined ticket £17.50, with discounted combined steamer tickets available. In the evening, return along the lake to Pooley Bridge, enjoying Fleetwood cod and chips at the Sun Inn or the Cumbrian tasting menu at 1863 Bar Bistro (£65), watching the sunset sink into the lake.

Attractions
Helvellyn via Striding Edge
At 950 metres, England's third highest peak. The route via Striding Edge arête was voted Britain's Favourite Walk — a Grade 1 scramble. Circular route 13 km/8 miles, 6-7 hours, sustained ascent. The knife-edge ridge drops sheer on both sides, ending with the 7-metre "The Chimney" rock descent. The summit trig point marks 950 metres, with panoramic views across the entire Lake District on clear days. Descent via Swirral Edge (shorter but steeper). Requires mountain boots, navigation equipment and Mountain Weather forecast. Never attempt in high winds or icy conditions. Experienced walkers only.
Dalemain Mansion & Gardens
The Hasell family home since 1679, blending a Medieval Pele Tower with Tudor and Georgian architecture. RHS award-winning gardens feature Himalayan blue poppies (Meconopsis), 200 rose varieties, ancient apple trees and a Tudor knot garden. Hosts the World's Original Marmalade Awards each spring with 2,000+ entries. The Great Barn houses a Lake District agriculture and Fell Pony museum. House & Garden combined ticket £17.50, under 12s free, Historic Houses members free. Combined steamer discount available. Courtyard tea room serves local produce.
The Cockpit Stone Circle
One of the largest stone circles in the Lake District, about 12 metres in diameter, formed by over 30 upright stones. Dating from the Neolithic or Early Bronze Age (c.2000-3000 BC), possibly used for astronomical observation or ritual ceremonies. About 1 mile north of Howtown along the Ullswater Way, across open moorland with panoramic lake views. Free entry, no signage, map navigation required.
Pooley Bridge
A charming village at the eastern end of Ullswater. The medieval stone bridge was washed away in the 2015 floods; the replacement has become a new landmark. The village green is home to the Sun Inn (Fleetwood cod and chips £12-15) and 1863 Bar Bistro (Cumbrian tasting menu £65). The pier is the eastern terminus for the steamers and the gateway to Dalemain Estate. Several easy lakeside walks start from the village, perfect for sunset strolls.
Practical Info
Transport
  • Train to Penrith, then 508 bus to Glenridding (about 30 mins)
  • Driving: M6 J40, A592 to Glenridding
  • To Pooley Bridge: A6 northbound about 5 miles
  • To Dalemain: about 2 miles from Pooley Bridge
Tickets & Fees
  • Steamer single: £14.50-£16
  • Steamer return: £19.50-£22
  • Dalemain House & Garden: £17.50
  • Aira Force/Daffodil Bay: Free
  • Sharrow Bay Afternoon Tea: £35-£55
  • Helvellyn: Free (requires mountain equipment)
Travel Tips
  • Helvellyn is for experienced walkers only; check mountain weather
  • Striding Edge is deadly in high winds or icy conditions
  • Howtown has no car park; accessible only by steamer
  • Dalemain closed Saturdays and in winter
  • Lake District weather changes rapidly; carry a lightweight raincoat

Must-Eat Around Ullswater

Sharrow Bay Legendary Afternoon Tea

Founded in 1948 as "England's first country house hotel", its lakeside terrace overlooks the entire lake. The legendary six-course afternoon tea started at 2 shillings and sixpence: smoked trout, Cumberland ham, handmade scones with clotted cream, Lakeland cakes and proper English tea. The six-course dinner menu showcases local Lake District ingredients: Herdwick lamb, Windermere trout and Cartmel smoked salmon. Afternoon tea £35-£55/person, dinner £65-£95/person, accommodation £180-£380/night. Advance booking required weeks ahead.

Inn on the Lake Lakeside Restaurant

A 4-star hotel restaurant on the Glenridding lakeshore, with floor-to-ceiling windows facing Ullswater and the distant fells. Specialises in Cumbrian classics: Herdwick lamb shoulder, Lake District grilled trout, Cumberland sausage roll and handmade desserts. The Ramblers Bar serves local craft ales and whiskies, with cosy fireside seating. TripAdvisor 4.5/5 (3000+ reviews). Budget £18-£35 per person.

Fellbites Café

A high-scoring café in Glenridding village centre (TripAdvisor 4.6/5), specialising in handmade local ingredients: Cumberland sausage sandwiches, Lake District cheese jacket potatoes, daily homemade soup and handmade cakes. Right next to the steamer pier — the most convenient refuelling stop before or after a hike. Affordable, budget £8-£15 per person.

The Sun Inn, Pooley Bridge

A 16th-century historic inn on Pooley Bridge village green, widely recognised as serving the best fish and chips in the northern Lake District — Fleetwood cod with locally grown potatoes, £12-15. The traditional Cumberland pie and bitter ale by the winter fire are equally classic. Sunday roasts require advance booking. Budget £12-£22 per person.

Dalemain Courtyard Tea Room

A medieval hall tea room within Dalemain Estate, using fruit from the estate's ancient apple trees for pies and preserves. Serves authentic Cumbrian tea: smoked trout sandwiches, scones with homemade jam, gingerbread and Lakeland tea. Famous Dalemain Marmalade (World's Original Marmalade Awards champion) available for purchase. Budget £10-£18 per person.

Ullswater Travel Tips
Best Time to Visit
  • Late March-April: Daffodils in full bloom, best for poetry seekers
  • May-Sep: Full steamer schedule, best hiking conditions
  • October: Autumn colours, Dalemain gardens at their finest
  • Weekdays (Tue-Thu): Fewer crowds on steamers
Must-Try Foods
  • Sharrow Bay Legendary Afternoon Tea
  • Cumberland Sausage & Herdwick Lamb
  • Dalemain Homemade Marmalade & Scones
  • Sun Inn Fleetwood Cod & Chips
  • Lake District Smoked Trout
Budget Reference
  • Steamer/Tickets: £30-£50
  • Accommodation: £60-£380/night (hostel dorm from £20)
  • Dining: £20-£60/day
  • Transport: £8-£20 (bus/parking)
  • Total: £80-£200
FAQ
  • Is Helvellyn suitable for beginners? → Striding Edge is for experienced walkers only; beginners can take the Red Tarn path
  • How does the "Sail & Stride" work? → Sail to Howtown, walk 7 miles back along the lakeshore
  • Where is Daffodil Bay? → Glencoyne Bay, 1.5 miles west of Glenridding
  • Is Sharrow Bay worth it? → England's first country house hotel, afternoon tea ceremony unmatched
  • How do I get to Howtown? → No car park; accessible only by steamer

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