Buttermere Travel Guide

Buttermere, nestled in a secluded valley in the English Lake District — voted by the public as one of "Britain's most beautiful landscapes". Buttermere Lake lies quietly between two great peaks, Fleetwith Pike and High Stile, with a lone pine reflected in the emerald water. Wainwright called it "the quietest corner among the mountains". Here you will find Scale Force, the Lake District's highest waterfall (52-metre single drop), the tragic love story of Mary Robinson, the "Beauty of Buttermere", the stone church celebrated by Wordsworth and Coleridge, and Haystacks — Wainwright's favourite fell, where his ashes were scattered on the summit at Innominate Tarn, to rest forever among the mountains. This 2-day, 1-night classic tour includes a lakeshore walk, waterfall exploration, bluebell valley discovery, and Via Ferrata climbing.

4.5
Miles of Lake Shore Walk
52
Metres Single Drop of Scale Force
1848
Year St James' Church Was Built
597
Metres Height of Haystacks
Buttermere Lake with Fleetwith Pike reflected in the water
Buttermere Lake
An emerald lake embraced by the twin giants Fleetwith Pike and High Stile, with a lone pine and rugged cliffs mirrored in the water. Wainwright called it "the quietest corner among the mountains", and it was voted one of Britain's most beautiful landscapes.

Buttermere 2-Day, 1-Night Classic Tour

Walk around England's most tranquil lake, discover the Lake District's highest waterfall, and summit Wainwright's favourite fell Haystacks.

Duration
2 Days / 1 Night
Main Destinations
Buttermere Lake, Crummock Water, Scale Force Waterfall, St James' Church, Haystacks Fell, Rannerdale Bluebell Valley
Suitable For
Hikers, Climbers, Nature Lovers, Literature Fans, Photography Enthusiasts
Budget per Person
£30 - £120
01
Lake & Waterfall
Buttermere Lake Shore Walk · St James' Church · Scale Force Waterfall · Crummock Water · Rannerdale Bluebell Valley
Highlights

Start from the National Trust car park in Buttermere village (postcode CA13 9UZ) and walk anticlockwise around the lake — this is the direction Wainwright recommended as "the best viewing direction". The full circuit is 4.5 miles (7 km) and takes about 3 hours. Most of the path is level and easy, except for one section requiring a short scramble known as the "Rock Step". Along the way, you pass through a stone tunnel carved by a 19th-century Manchester mill owner — the tunnel is narrow enough that you must stoop to pass, adding a touch of adventure. The lone pine on the western shore and the near-vertical cliffs of Fleetwith Pike reflected in the water create the classic postcard view. Keep an eye out for sandpipers nesting along the lakeshore — from April to late June, a section of the northern bank may be closed to protect their nests. In the afternoon, visit St James' Church — a stone church built in 1848, with stone quarried from Sourmilk Gill. Inside, you'll find a 1820 organ and the Wainwright Memorial Window (the windowsill bears an inscription: "Pause and remember Alfred Wainwright... lift your eyes to Haystacks his favourite place 1907-1991"). Then follow Scale Beck upstream for 2.5 miles (4 km) to Scale Force — the highest waterfall in the Lake District, with a single drop of 52 metres (170 feet). In rainy season, the cascade roars like a white dragon plunging from the sky, echoing through the gorge. In the evening, stroll along the eastern shore of Crummock Water to Lanthwaite Wood, settle on a lakeside bench facing the Grasmoor crags to watch the sunset. If you're lucky enough to visit in late April to early May, the slopes of Rannerdale Knotts are carpeted with millions of bluebells, turning the entire valley into a sea of purple.

Attractions
Buttermere Lake Shore Walk
One of the most beautiful lakeshore walks in the Lake District. The full circuit is 4.5 miles (7 km) and takes about 3 hours. Go anticlockwise from Buttermere village, walking gently along the western shore, passing a 19th-century stone tunnel and the lone pine viewpoint. At the head of the lake, you need to scramble over a short Rock Step section. Wainwright praised this route for having "the best effort-to-reward ratio". Note that from April to late June, a section of the northern bank is closed due to sandpiper nesting; you must detour via the road for a short stretch.
St James' Church & Wainwright Memorial Window
Built in 1848, funded by Reverend Vaughan Thomas of Oxford University. The stone was quarried from Sourmilk Gill. Inside, there is an 1820 pipe organ. The most notable feature is a south-facing windowsill bearing the Wainwright Memorial inscription: "Pause and remember Alfred Wainwright fell walker, guide book author and illustrator who loved this valley... lift your eyes to Haystacks his favourite place 1907-1991". The church is free to enter and is a must-visit for literary pilgrims in the Lake District.
Scale Force Waterfall (Highest in the Lake District)
The highest waterfall in the English Lake District, with a main drop of 52 metres (170 feet), followed by several smaller cascades below. Follow Scale Beck upstream from Buttermere village for 2.5 miles (4 km). The path passes through a fern-filled gorge, and the waterfall is hidden deep within the rock face at the end of the valley — its sudden reveal is highly dramatic. The flow is most impressive after heavy rain or snowmelt, but the rocks become extremely slippery. This route also provides access to the western shore of Crummock Water.
Practical Info
Accommodation
  • Bridge Hotel (historic lakeside hotel, hosting guests since 1734)
  • The Fish Inn (oldest inn, former home of Mary Robinson)
  • YHA Buttermere (¼ mile from village, lake-view hostel)
  • Gatesgarth Farm Campsite
Food Recommendations
  • Bridge Hotel Restaurant (Herdwick lamb HotPot)
  • The Fish Inn pub food (classic Lake District pies)
  • Buttermere Ayrshire handmade ice cream (Sykes Farm)
  • Bring a picnic (only two pubs serve food in the valley)
Travel Tips
  • Car park takes cash only or JustPark app
  • Walk anticlockwise around the lake; western shore can be windy
  • Northern shore path closed April-late June (sandpiper nesting)
  • Very poor mobile signal in the valley; download offline maps
02
Summit & Iron Route
Haystacks · Innominate Tarn · Honister Pass Via Ferrata · Crummock Water Kayaking · Departure
Highlights

Set off early from the Gatesgarth Farm car park (postcode CA13 9XA) to climb Wainwright's lifelong favourite fell — Haystacks (597m). This 8km circular route takes about 4-5 hours. The first half crosses Peggy's Bridge over Warnscale Beck before ascending steeply. At Scarth Gap col, turn left onto the true scramble section — you'll need both hands to grip the jagged ridge. The summit is a labyrinth of rocky tors and emerald tarns. Wainwright's ashes were scattered at Innominate Tarn — he wrote: "For a man trying to get a persistent worry out of his mind, the top of Haystacks is a wonderful cure." From the summit, Buttermere Lake glows like a jewel set between giant peaks, with Pillar and Great Gable saluting in the distance. After descending, drive over Honister Pass (350m elevation, one of Britain's steepest roads with gradients of 1:4) to reach Honister Slate Mine — England's only working slate mine and home to the country's first Via Ferrata. Follow a guide along the miners' historic route up Fleetwith Pike, using steel ladders, cables, and suspension bridges fixed to near-vertical cliffs. After 3 hours of thrilling ascent, stand on the Sky Walk glass platform 600 metres above ground, with Borrowdale Valley spread beneath you like a miniature model. Those afraid of heights can choose the Classic route instead. In the afternoon, hire a kayak on Crummock Water (requires a £5/day permit) and enjoy this motor-free lake in solitude, or finish your journey with a cup of tea at the Lanthwaite Wood lakeside café.

Attractions
Haystacks Fell & Innominate Tarn
At 597 metres, Haystacks was Wainwright's favourite fell among the seven volumes of his Lake District guides. The summit is a maze of jagged tors, hidden pools, and wild screes. Innominate Tarn is the most beautiful of them all — Wainwright's ashes were scattered here, with instructions to face "towards Buttermere Lake and Pillar Mountain". The ascent from Gatesgarth takes about 3 hours, passing Warnscale Bothy (an ancient shepherd's stone shelter) and abandoned mine workings. The summit is extremely disorienting in mist; you must carry a map and compass. This is a "soul-healing journey" rather than a purely physical challenge.
Honister Pass Via Ferrata & Slate Mine
England's only working slate mine and home to the UK's first Via Ferrata. The Classic Via Ferrata route follows the 17th-century miners' path up Fleetwith Pike, using steel ladders, cables, and suspension bridges. The 3-hour ascent reaches 600 metres, offering panoramic views of Borrowdale. The Xtreme route adds the Sky Walk glass platform — 600 metres above the valley floor. Booking required (2-3 weeks in advance), guided only, helmets and harnesses provided, minimum age 10. Mine tours include slate-cutting demonstrations and underground exploration.
Crummock Water & Lanthwaite Wood
The "big sister" of Buttermere Lake — 4 km long and 44 metres deep, sandwiched between the Grasmoor crags and Mellbreak ridge. Quieter and wilder than its neighbour, it hosts brown trout, whitefish, and pike. Canoes, kayaks, and paddleboards are permitted (motor boats banned, £5/day permit required). The eastern shore at Lanthwaite Wood has a 2-hour circular trail passing early iron-smelting remains and lakeside benches, offering perfect reflections of Grasmoor. In April-May, the slopes of Rannerdale Knotts burst into a purple sea of bluebells, covering the entire valley.
Practical Info
Transport
  • No direct train; nearest stations Whitehaven/Workington (10 miles)
  • Driving: B5289 road south from Cockermouth
  • No. 77 Honister Rambler bus (Keswick-Buttermere)
  • Shuttle buses run on summer weekends (May-August)
Tickets & Fees
  • Buttermere Lake & Valley: Completely free
  • Parking: £7 (2h)/£8 (4h)/£9.50 (all day)
  • Kayak/Canoe Permit: £5/day
  • Fishing Permit: £10/day, annual £100
  • Via Ferrata Classic: approx £55/person
  • Via Ferrata Xtreme+Sky Walk: approx £75/person
Travel Tips
  • Via Ferrata requires booking 2-3 weeks in advance
  • Haystacks summit is extremely disorienting in fog; navigation skills essential
  • Honister Pass gradient is 1:4; use low gear when descending
  • Bluebell season (late April-May) brings crowds to Rannerdale; go early

Must-Eat in Buttermere

Bridge Hotel Lakeside Restaurant

The Bridge Hotel dates back to the 11th century; in 1734, Reverend Robert Walker obtained a licence and established the Bridge Inn, making it one of the oldest continuously operating inns in the Lake District. The restaurant specialises in local Cumbrian ingredients: Herdwick lamb HotPot (slow-cooked for 3 hours), Buttermere Ayrshire handmade ice cream (from Sykes Farm), and Lakes Distillery whisky. The bar stocks over 20 malt whiskies and local cask ales, with window seats facing Red Pike and High Stile. Budget £15-£30 per person.

The Fish Inn Traditional Pub

Buttermere's oldest inn, dating back to the 12th century, once the home of Mary Robinson, the "Beauty of Buttermere". Run by the Richardson family since 1968, Jean and John have worked here for over 55 years. The pub displays Mary's portrait and story panels. The menu features classic Lake District pies (Cumberland sausage pie, shepherd's pie) and fish & chips. The outdoor garden overlooks Haystacks. Budget £10-£20 per person.

Lanthwaite Wood Lakeside Tea Room

A simple tea room beside the Lanthwaite Wood car park on the eastern shore of Crummock Water. Serves hot drinks, homemade cakes, sandwiches, and soup — the perfect refuelling stop after a walk around Crummock. Open until dusk in summer, with outdoor wooden tables facing the lake and Grasmoor crags. All profits go towards maintaining National Trust footpaths. Budget £5-£12 per person.

Buttermere Ayrshire Farm Ice Cream

Handmade by Sykes Farm using milk from their own Ayrshire cows, exclusively available at the Bridge Hotel. Flavours include classic vanilla, honey lavender, and blackberry — rich, creamy, and smooth. The farm shop also sells homemade cheese, eggs, and jams, perfect as souvenirs. Single scoop from £3. Farm shop opening hours limited (usually 10:00-17:00).

Buttermere Travel Tips
Best Time to Visit
  • May-Sep: Full lake walk open, long daylight hours
  • Late April-May: Rannerdale bluebells in purple bloom
  • October: Autumn leaves reflected on lake, Grasmoor in gold and red
  • After heavy rain: Scale Force waterfall at its most dramatic
Must-Try Foods
  • Herdwick Lamb HotPot (Bridge Hotel)
  • Buttermere Ayrshire Handmade Ice Cream
  • Cumberland Sausage Pie (The Fish Inn)
  • Lakes Distillery Whisky
  • Local Cask Bitter Ale
Budget Reference
  • Parking: £9.50/day (free for NT members)
  • Accommodation: £25 (YHA) - £150 (Bridge Hotel)/night
  • Meals: £10-£30/day
  • Via Ferrata: £55-£75/person
  • Total: £30-£120
FAQ
  • Can I swim in the lake? → Swimming is prohibited in Buttermere; kayaking is allowed
  • Is there mobile reception? → Very weak in the valley; bring offline maps
  • Is Haystacks suitable for beginners? → Requires scrambling experience and navigation skills
  • Are bluebell season crowds bad? → Rannerdale gets very busy; go early in the morning

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