Derwentwater Travel Guide

Derwentwater — what Wordsworth called "the Queen of English Lakes", a 3-mile-long, 1-mile-wide emerald set between the Skiddaw and Catbells ridges. Seven wooden piers string together lakeside poetry, four lake islands each hold a thousand-year secret, century-old boats cut through mirror-still waters, and Friar's Crag bench invites you to sit all day watching the clouds shift. Row a boat between the islands, the Hundred Year Stone appears and disappears with the tide, and red squirrels dart through Borrowdale's pine woods and reed beds. This 2-day, 1-night classic tour includes lake cruises, ridge hiking, island exploration, rowing picnics and waterfall visits.

3
Miles Lake Length
7
Lakeside Piers
4
Lake Islands
1885
Beatrix Potter First Visited
Derwentwater with boat and Catbells ridge reflected in the lake
Derwentwater
Wordsworth called it "the Queen of English Lakes", blue waters winding between Skiddaw and Catbells ridges, four lake islands scattered like emeralds on the surface, century-old boats gliding through reflections like a living painting.

Derwentwater 2-Day, 1-Night Classic Tour

Cruise England's most beautiful lake, climb the Catbells ridge for panoramic lake views, explore four lake islands and the Hundred Year Stone sculpture, stroll along Friar's Crag and Borrowdale Valley.

Duration
2 Days / 1 Night
Main Destinations
Derwentwater Cruise, Friar's Crag, Catbells, Four Lake Islands, Hundred Year Stone, Lodore Falls, Borrowdale Valley, Ashness Bridge
Suitable For
Families, Hiking Enthusiasts, Photography Fans, Literature Lovers, Romantic Couples
Budget per Person
£80 - £190
01
Lake & Islands
Derwentwater Cruise · Friar's Crag · Four Lake Islands · Hundred Year Stone · Rowing Boat · Lakeside Sunset
Highlights

In the morning, walk 10 minutes south from Keswick town centre along the lakeside path to Lakeside Pier and board a Keswick Launch wooden cruiser for the 50-minute circuit of Derwentwater — seven piers (Keswick, Ashness Gate, Lodore, High Brandelhow, Low Brandelhow, Hawes End, Nichol End) string together lakeside poetry, and buying an Explorer day ticket lets you hop on and off at any pier. First stop at Friar's Crag — John Ruskin first saw Derwentwater here aged five, calling it "the creation day of my life", and the viewpoint bench faces the Catbells ridge and four lake islands directly. Continue by boat to Low Brandelhow pier — this was the first piece of land the National Trust bought in the Lake District (1902), and the "Entrust" hands sculpture stands on the shore commemorating this historic moment. Walk 15 minutes to Calf Close Bay to find the Hundred Year Stone by Peter Randall-Page — a Borrowdale volcanic rock split in two with 100 concentric folds carved into the cross-section, representing the National Trust's centenary, appearing and disappearing with the changing water levels. In the afternoon, return to Keswick pier and rent a rowing boat or pedal boat (£23-£46/hour), row out yourself to St Herbert's Island — Beatrix Potter was inspired by this island for the Owl Island in The Tale of Squirrel Nutkin, and the ruins of a 7th-century hermit's cell remain. In the evening, enjoy local malt ale in a lakeside pub, watching swans return to roost and the sunset paint Catbells gold and crimson.

Attractions
Derwentwater Cruise (Keswick Launch)
Wooden cruisers operating since the 1850s, departing from Keswick pier on a 50-minute lake circuit, stopping at seven lakeside piers. Explorer day ticket adult £13.50, child £6.75, allowing hop-on hop-off at any pier — the best way to combine cruising with lakeside walking. The sunset service when Catbells ridge turns gold and crimson is truly magical. Reduced weekend-only service in winter.
Friar's Crag Viewpoint
Just 10 minutes' lakeside walk from the town centre. John Ruskin first saw Derwentwater here aged five, calling it "the creation day of my life" — an inspiration that later made him a founder of the National Trust. A memorial stone and lakeside bench face Catbells ridge, Derwent Island and Lord's Island directly, offering the best free panoramic lake view. Named after friars who once pilgrimaged to St Herbert's Island.
St Herbert's Island
The largest island on Derwentwater (about 5 acres). In AD 685, St Herbert lived here as a hermit and missionary; after his death it became a pilgrimage site, and Wordsworth wrote an inscription for "the desolate ruins of St Herbert's cell". Beatrix Potter was inspired by this island for the Owl Island in The Tale of Squirrel Nutkin. The circular stone hut foundations are still visible deep in the undergrowth. A Catholic mass is held here annually on 20 March. About 20 minutes rowing from Keswick pier.
Hundred Year Stone
Created in 1995 to commemorate the National Trust's centenary. Sculptor Peter Randall-Page split a Borrowdale volcanic boulder in two and carved 100 concentric folds into the cross-section. Located at Calf Close Bay lakeside, it rests on a small pebble beach at low water and can be partially or fully submerged when water levels rise — check recent rainfall before visiting. One of Derwentwater's most Instagrammed photo spots.
Practical Info
Accommodation
  • Mary Mount Hotel (lakeside 3-star, 3-min walk to lake)
  • The Borrowdale Hotel (valley 4-star)
  • YHA Keswick Youth Hostel (riverside)
  • Derwentwater Hotel (next to Nichol End pier)
Food Recommendations
  • Mary Mount Hotel Lakeview Restaurant
  • Lodore Falls Hotel Waterfall Restaurant
  • The Chalet Tearoom Lakeside Afternoon Tea
  • Dog & Gun Inn Traditional Cumbrian Pub
Travel Tips
  • Explorer day ticket offers best value; buy early
  • Hundred Year Stone only visible at low water; avoid after heavy rain
  • Save energy for return rowing; headwind can be exhausting
  • Lord's Island and Rampsholme have "no-go zones" protecting waterbirds
02
Ridge & Falls
Catbells Ridge · Walla Crag · Lodore Falls · Borrowdale Valley · Ashness Bridge · Departure
Highlights

Take the early morning cruise to Hawes End pier (or catch the 77A Honister Rambler bus) and begin climbing Catbells — the Lake District's most famous ridge walk, just 5.7 km round trip, 3 hours return, yet unfolding a 360-degree panorama of Keswick, Derwentwater and Borrowdale Valley from the very first step. Wainwright called it "the greatest reward for the least effort". Zigzag up the stone path of Skelgill Bank to the 451-metre summit marked by a cairn and iron cross, with Newlands Valley and the western peaks laid out before you, then descend via Hawes Gate back to the lakeside. After descending, take the cruise to Lodore pier and walk 15 minutes to explore Lodore Falls — after rain, 100 feet (30 metres) of water thunders down, inspiring poet Robert Southey's 130-line narrative poem "The Cataract of Lodore" in 1820. Continue south into Borrowdale Valley, following the Derwent River's south bank path through pine woods and reed beds, watching for red squirrels and kingfishers. Pass Ashness Bridge — the most photographed ancient packhorse bridge in the Lake District, its mossy arch spanning a rushing stream with Skiddaw as the backdrop, the classic postcard scene. From the bridge, walk 5 minutes further up to Surprise View, overlooking the entire Derwentwater like an emerald set among the mountains. In the evening, return to Keswick and browse the Thursday or Saturday Keswick Market (700 years old, the Lake District's best), picking up handmade cheeses and Lakeland preserves, then catch the bus back to Penrith station.

Attractions
Catbells Ridge Walk
451 metres elevation, 5.7 km circular route from Hawes End pier, 3 hours return — the Lake District's classic moderate-grade climb. Panoramic views of Derwentwater unfold from the very first step; the summit cairn offers 360-degree views of Keswick town, Newlands Valley and the western peaks. Some scrambling sections but non-technical. Wainwright praised it as "unsurpassed value for scenery". Suitable for ages 8+ and moderately fit walkers.
Lodore Falls
Located at the southern end of Derwentwater at the entrance to Borrowdale, this 100-foot (30-metre) waterfall thunders down after rain with a roar like thunder. Poet Robert Southey wrote his 130-line poem "The Cataract of Lodore" about it in 1820, making it one of the most famous waterfalls of the Victorian era. Just 15 minutes' walk from Lodore pier through wooded stream valleys; frozen icicles create a different spectacle in winter.
Ashness Bridge & Surprise View
The most photographed ancient packhorse bridge in the Lake District — a fine little bridge spanning a rushing stream, its mossy arch framed against the majestic Skiddaw summit, the classic postcard and tea towel image. From the bridge, walk 5 minutes further up to Surprise View, overlooking the entire Derwentwater like an emerald set among the mountains, especially spectacular at sunset. About 20 minutes' walk from Ashness Gate pier.
Borrowdale Valley
A classic valley extending from the southern end of Derwentwater, cut by the Derwent River through deep green pastures and jagged peaks. Pass through the ancient villages of Seatoller and Rosthwaite, exploring Lodore Falls and the Seathwaite graphite mine site (origin of the pencil industry). Brandelhow Wood was the first piece of land bought by the National Trust in the Lake District (1902), marked by the "Hands Sculpture". The valley is the southern gateway to Scafell Pike and one of the Lake District's most scenic drives.
Practical Info
Transport
  • Train to Penrith station, then X4/X5 bus about 40 mins to Keswick
  • From Keswick town centre, walk 10 mins to lakeside pier
  • 77A Honister Rambler bus reaches Catbells trailhead
  • 555 bus connects Windermere and Keswick
Tickets & Fees
  • Derwentwater Explorer Day Ticket: £13.50
  • Single Cruise Ticket: £9
  • Rowing Boat: £23/hour (2 persons)
  • Motor Boat: £46/hour (2 persons)
  • Stand-Up Paddleboard: £36/2 hours
  • Catbells/Derwent Isle: Free
  • Derwent Island Open Days: £5 (open 5 days/year, booking required)
Travel Tips
  • Catbells summit is very windy; bring windproof jacket
  • Hundred Year Stone only visible at low water; check water levels
  • Lake District weather changes rapidly; carry a lightweight raincoat
  • Rowing against headwind is exhausting; save energy for return
  • Surprise View is most spectacular at sunset

Must-Eat Around Derwentwater

Mary Mount Hotel Lakeview Restaurant

A family-run hotel restaurant at the entrance to Borrowdale Valley on the Derwentwater shore, with floor-to-ceiling windows facing the lake and Catbells ridge opposite. Specialises in local Lake District ingredients: Derwentwater trout with lemon butter, Cumberland lamb pie and Lakeland roast chicken, with vegetarian and gluten-free options available. Summer terrace dining with sailing boats in view. Budget £18-£30 per person.

Lodore Falls Hotel Waterfall Restaurant

A Victorian hotel restaurant next to Lodore pier at the southern end of Derwentwater, adjacent to Lodore Falls. Signature Cumberland sausage platter, Lakeland roast lamb and shepherd's pie, paired with local bitter ales, with floor-to-ceiling windows capturing the waterfall spray rising outside. The three-tier afternoon tea with scones and raspberry cake is a classic choice. Budget £20-£35 per person.

The Chalet Tearoom

A cosy tearoom on the Keswick lakeshore, just 2 minutes' walk from the pier. Signature handmade scones with clotted cream, cucumber sandwiches and Lakeland tea, plus homemade gingerbread and apple cake. Winter fireside seating is wonderfully warm; summer garden terrace overlooks the lake with sailing boats in the distance. Budget £10-£18 per person.

Dog & Gun Inn

A century-old traditional pub in Keswick town centre, with original oak beams and fireplace creating an authentic Cumbrian atmosphere. Signature Cumberland sausage roll, Lake District beef pie and fish and chips, paired with local Keswick Brewing bitter ales — the most comforting British dinner after a hike. Live music at weekends. Budget £15-£25 per person.

Keswick Brewing Company Fox Tap Bar

The brewery's own tap bar with a terrace facing the foot of Skiddaw. Signature Tag Lag bitter ale (full-bodied) and Thwaite Blonde golden ale (crisp), paired with handmade beef pie and local cheese platters. 10p from every pint supports Lake District conservation. Dog-friendly. Budget £10-£18 per person.

Derwentwater Travel Tips
Best Time to Visit
  • May-Sep: Full cruise schedule, long daylight, boating season
  • October: Autumn leaves reflected on the lake, fewer crowds
  • After rain: Lodore Falls at its most powerful and spectacular
  • Weekdays (Tue-Thu): Fewer cruise passengers
Must-Try Foods
  • Derwentwater Grilled Trout
  • Cumberland Sausage Roll
  • Keswick Brewing Bitter Ale
  • Mary Mount Lakeview Afternoon Tea
  • Handmade Cheese & Lakeland Preserves
Budget Reference
  • Cruise/Rowing: £30-£50
  • Accommodation: £65-£155/night (hostel dorm from £20)
  • Dining: £20-£45/day
  • Transport: £10-£18 (bus day pass)
  • Total: £80-£190
FAQ
  • Is the cruise day ticket worth it? → Yes, hop on/off at seven piers freely
  • Is Catbells suitable for seniors/children? → 5.7 km with scrambling; ages 8+ recommended
  • Can I go onto the islands? → St Herbert's Island by rowing boat; Derwent Island open 5 days/year
  • Where is the Hundred Year Stone? → Calf Close Bay, visible at low water
  • What to do on a rainy day? → Keswick Museum, Brewery tour, Lakeside Theatre

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