Eskdale, England's Lake District — hidden in the western Lake District as the most secluded and wild valley, described by walking writer Alfred Wainwright as "one of the loveliest valleys in the Lake District." There are no busy main roads, no bustling commercial streets — only the winding River Esk rushing down from the foot of England's highest peaks, flanked by continuous oak woodlands, fern-covered slopes and russet cliffs. Ride the La'al Ratty narrow-gauge steam train from Ravenglass on the Irish Sea coast deep into the valley, climb England's highest peak Scafell Pike (978m), leap into the 5-metre-deep crystal waters of Tongue Pot natural rock pool, and explore the 2nd-century AD Ravenglass Roman Bath House — whose walls still stand 4 metres high. This 2-day classic itinerary includes the steam train, peak climbing, wild swimming pools, Roman ruins and a Japanese secret garden.
Ride the steam train through a hidden valley, climb England's highest peak, and traverse two thousand years between Roman baths and a Japanese secret garden
Arrive in the morning at Ravenglass — the Lake District's only coastal village, where three rivers (Esk, Irt and Mite) converge to form the estuary, served by the Cumbrian Coast railway line. First, explore the Ravenglass Roman Bath House on the edge of the village — built in AD 130, its walls still stand nearly 4 metres high, making it the tallest surviving Roman building in northern Britain. Imagine Roman soldiers relaxing in hot baths before plunging into the cold plunge pool two thousand years ago. Then board the "La'al Ratty" narrow-gauge steam train — a miniature railway with a 15-inch gauge operating since 1875. The seven-mile journey passes through the hidden Miterdale valley and into the heart of Eskdale. During the 40-minute ride, the train stops at Muncaster Mill, Irton Road, The Green and Beckfoot before reaching the valley terminus at Dalegarth for Boot station. Enjoy a hot sausage roll and ginger tea at the 1876 café in the station. In the afternoon, choose the Eskdale Trail — a 14 km (8.5 mile) official footpath/cycle track winding downhill from Dalegarth to Ravenglass, running through riverside pastures, meadows and ancient oak woodlands, passing 22 metal signposts designed by local artist Chris Brammal (brass rubbings can be collected). Watch for red squirrels leaping in the branches, roe deer peeking through the grass, and buzzards circling overhead. En route, discover the Giggle Alley Japanese secret garden — designed in 1914 by renowned landscape architect Thomas Mawson for Gate House estate, featuring bamboo groves, Japanese maples, a small bridge over a babbling stream and moss-covered stone steps forming a forgotten oriental tableau, gradually being restored by volunteers. In the evening, visit the Discover Eskdale exhibition centre at St Bega's Church in Eskdale Green, learning about the valley's two-thousand-year human and natural history. Stay overnight at an inn in Boot or Eskdale Green, enjoying a pint of Cumbrian Ale by the fireplace.
Drive early to Whahouse Bridge car park (foot of Hardknott Pass, grid reference NY201009) to begin the ascent of England's highest peak, Scafell Pike (978m). Follow the permissive path eastward, climbing past Birdhow and Taw House farms, crossing a stone bridge beside Scale Gill waterfall — water thunders down the left cliff face, spraying mist in the air. Continue along the ridge to the expansive Great Moss plateau, where Sampson's Stones rise like a megalithic boulder field. Take the right-hand route, climbing beside Cam Spout waterfall up Greencove Wyke, then turn north to reach the Scafell Pike trig point — a 360-degree panorama unfolds: the silver horizon of the Irish Sea to the northwest, the rugged volcanic rock mass of Scafell to the southeast, and endless Cumbrian mountains at your feet. Only 6% of climbers use the Eskdale route compared to Wasdale — you will enjoy the mountain summit in solitude. Descend and drive near Brotherikeld, following the River Esk to find Tongue Pot — a 5-metre-deep natural rock pool with crystal-clear water so pure you can see the bottom. The brave can leap from the surrounding rocks into the emerald depths. Along the way, pass Kail Pot and Pillar Pot — two smaller pools, each fed by a waterfall and surrounded by mossy rocks. Return to Boot village and cross the River Esk via the Stepping Stones beside St Catherine's Church — enormous natural boulders scattered across the riverbed, water gently flowing around your ankles, a favourite activity for families. Pack up in the afternoon and depart from Ravenglass by train, carrying the scent of the mountains as you bid farewell to Eskdale.
A cosy café located on the ground floor of Dalegarth for Boot station, named after the station's founding year of 1876. Serves hot sausage rolls, hand-made pies, Earl Grey tea and freshly baked scones, with lunch specials including Lake District roast lamb and shepherd's pie. Has a separate afternoon tea area (booking required), plus covered outdoor picnic tables and a children's playground. Open to both train passengers and the general public. Budget: £8-£18 per person.
A traditional coaching inn dating from 1751 in Eskdale Green, retaining original stone walls and oak beams. 20 en-suite rooms spread across the main house and converted barn annexe, most dog-friendly. The restaurant focuses on local ingredients: Cumberland sausages, Lake District roast lamb, smoked trout, paired with local craft ales from Lakes Brew Co and others. The garden overlooks Muncaster Fell, with cricket matches to watch in summer. Listed in the Good Beer Guide. Budget: £14-£26 per person.
A 17th-century coaching inn perched at the mountain pass in Eskdale, surrounded by England's highest peaks and home to the Hardknott Brewery. Signature wood-fired pizzas (including gluten-free options), venison burgers and Lake District mushroom pasta, with up to 7 local cask ales always on tap. Offers group accommodation at Woolpack Lodge (4 bedrooms, sleeps 7) and Stanley House (12 rooms). The perfect rest stop after climbing Scafell Pike. Budget: £14-£26 per person.
A 17th-century traditional tavern in Eskdale Green, with exposed oak beams, flagstone floors and a roaring fire creating an authentic old-world atmosphere. Serves up to ten rotating local cask ales daily, with around 100 single malt whiskies in stock. Lunch offers sandwiches, jacket potatoes and fish & chips; dinner features steak and ale pie, scallops and daily specials. The beer garden faces the mountains and features giant skittles. Budget: £12-£25 per person.