Ennerdale — the Lake District's westernmost, wildest secret valley. No road runs alongside the lake, no pleasure boat cuts through its emerald waters. This is England's earliest rewilding experiment, where nature is reshaping the landscape in its rawest form. In 1826, shepherd John Atkinson climbed Pillar Rock from here, igniting the flame of Lake District mountaineering. Today you can still trace a 600-year-old smithy settlement along the Smithy Beck path, or stand atop Bowness Knott and gaze simultaneously at the Irish Sea and the Lakeland peaks. This 2-day, 1-night classic tour includes lakeside hiking, rewilded valley exploration, ancient ruin hunting, and a pilgrimage to the birthplace of climbing.
Kayak England's westernmost wild lake, hike the rewilded valley tracing ancient settlements, and climb Pillar Rock — the birthplace of Lake District mountaineering.
Start from the free Bleach Green car park and embark on the Round the Lake walk (6.5 miles / 10.5 km, about 4 hours). The path winds along the shoreline: the western side opens onto broad lake views across to Side Wood's ancient woodland, while the eastern side requires a scramble over a 200-metre rocky ledge beneath Angler's Crag — hands-on, hugging the cliff face, the most thrilling and memorable section of the entire route. Standing on the ledge, you look down on the emerald stillness of the lake, with Pillar Rock rising like a giant pillar into the sky beyond. Descending to the eastern shore, you cross pine forests and fern brakes to picnic on the grass at the site of the old Angler's Hotel — once a Victorian anglers' retreat, now only crumbling walls and wildflowers remain. In the afternoon, turn onto the Smithy Beck Path — a 2-mile (3.2 km) circular trail linking the ruins of a 600-year-old iron-smelting settlement. The double-layer stone walls of the longhouse are still clearly visible; archaeologists say this unique construction proves year-round habitation, not just seasonal grazing. When the ferns die back in winter, the ancient walls emerge like dragons' spines across the hillside — the best season for photography. Return in the evening to Ennerdale Bridge village, order a pint of local Ennerdale Brewery bitter at the Shepherd's Arms, enjoy Cumberland sausage platter by the fire, and listen to tales from Coast to Coast walkers in the bar.
Set off early from the Bowness Knott car park, cycling or hiking deep into the valley along the forest road. Bowness Knott stands at just 332 metres, yet offers the finest panorama of Ennerdale — a 20-minute climb rewards you with the sight of three great peaks lined up before you: Pillar (892m), Steeple (819m), and Great Gable (899m), with the lake set like a jade gem between forest and meadow, and the distant outline of the Irish Sea and the Isle of Man to the west. In the morning, follow the Liza riverside trail eastwards into the heart of the rewilding zone. The river leaps between gravel bars and deep pools; tall Scots pines and birches are replacing monoculture plantations — the result of over 20 years of rewilding by the Wild Ennerdale Partnership (National Trust + Forestry Commission + United Utilities, founded 2003). Track wildlife signs: red deer hoof prints, otter slides, and the silhouette of white-tailed eagles overhead. In the afternoon, take the Pilgrim's Path to Pillar Rock — ascend from the valley floor along the ridge to the start of the Slab and Notch route (about 2 hours). Look up at this colossal rock pillar perched on the mountainside. In 1826, shepherd John Atkinson completed the first recorded ascent here, launching the history of British rock climbing. Even without climbing, standing at the foot of the pillar and feeling its overwhelming mass is a breathtaking experience. If you visit on the last Wednesday of August, head to Kirkland Leaps for the 118th Ennerdale Show — one of Britain's oldest agricultural shows, featuring sheepdog trials, Cumberland wrestling, and stick judging, unmissable traditions of the Lake District countryside.
The heart of Ennerdale Bridge village, an award-winning cottage pub evolved from a farmer's house. Specialising in local Lake District ingredients: Cumberland sausages, Lakeland lamb pie, rib-eye steak — all freshly cooked. The drinks list draws almost entirely from Cumbrian breweries (Cumbrian Legendary Ales, Ennerdale, Hawkshead, Keswick). A classic stop for Coast to Coast walkers. Budget £12-£25 per person.
A community-run café in the centre of Ennerdale Bridge, serving hot drinks, homemade cakes, sandwiches, and soup — the last refuelling stop before entering the valley. All profits go towards maintaining valley paths and public facilities. Warm and rustic atmosphere. Open until dusk in summer, weekends only in winter. Budget £5-£12 per person.
Another traditional pub beside the church in Ennerdale Bridge, opposite the Shepherd's Arms across the river. Famous for fireside dinners and local malt ales. Sunday roast is the signature dish; the light menu includes fish & chips, shepherd's pie, and vegetable soup. Dog-friendly (until 18:00), with a small beer garden. Budget £10-£20 per person.
The only general store in the valley, selling bread, cheese, ham, fruit, and drinks — the essential stop for assembling a picnic basket. Also stocks local honey, jams, and Lake District handmade chocolates, perfect as souvenirs. Opening hours limited (usually 10:00-17:00), so shop in the morning. The friendly staff are happy to give walking advice.