Birmingham Back to Backs — operated by the National Trust, the only living museum in the UK dedicated to industrial-era working-class housing. Court 15 sits at the corner of Inge Street and Hurst Street, originally built in 1802, and is Birmingham's last surviving courtyard of back-to-back terraced houses. Four restored houses recreate the 1840s Jewish watchmaker's home, the 1870s glassworker's kitchen, the 1960s family living room and the 1970s Caribbean tailor's shop — fire crackling in the hearth, old radios playing sounds from those eras, as if time has stood still. From Victorian slum to multicultural melting pot, this is the most intimate gateway to understanding Birmingham's soul. Tours last approximately 90 minutes and are by appointment only.
From the candlelit workshop of an 1840s Jewish watchmaker to the hum of a 1970s Caribbean tailor's sewing machine — step into Birmingham's last surviving back-to-back courtyard and hear the true heartbeat of two centuries of working-class life
Start your morning from Birmingham New Street Station's Hill Street exit, walk downhill along Hill Street for about 5 minutes, pass the Hippodrome Theatre and you'll reach the visitor reception at the corner of Inge Street and Hurst Street. The Back to Backs is accessible by guided tour only, so it's strongly recommended to book your time slot online in advance — every Thursday, slots for the fourth week ahead are released. Led by knowledgeable volunteers, the tour takes you through four meticulously restored houses: first, the 1840s home of Jewish watchmaker Lawrence Levy — the bedroom doubling as a workshop filled with tiny gears and hairsprings, with a wire basket hanging from the ceiling to store eggs safe from mice; then the 1870s kitchen of glassworker Herbert Oldfield, where a coal range, cast iron kettle and chequerboard tiles pull you back to the late Victorian era; the 1960s version swaps in plastic flowers, a radio and black-and-white television. Finally, you arrive at the tailor shop of Caribbean-born George Saunders (1974-2001), where sewing machines, fabric swatches and custom-made riding breeches for the Household Cavalry leave you in awe. After the tour, don't miss the Court 15 second-hand bookshop and the free exhibition space upstairs.
Located in the Arcadian centre just one street away from the Back to Backs, facing the Hippodrome Theatre square. Charcoal-grilled marinated souvlaki, Greek salad with authentic feta cheese, and rose-and-syrup-soaked baklava are unforgettable. Per person £15-£25, the top choice for a meal before or after the theatre.
A 3-minute walk from the museum takes you to the heart of Birmingham's Chinatown. This family-run Cantonese restaurant's signature three-roast rice — crispy roast duck, honey-glazed char siu and crispy roast pork lined up in a row — and wok-fried beef hor fun are must-orders. Per person £15-£22.
Opened in 1962, one of Birmingham's most senior Indian restaurants, run by three generations of the same family. Every dish is cooked from scratch after ordering. The signature Balti steel-wok curry with garlic naan is the authentic way to experience Birmingham's soul food. Per person £12-£20.
A neighbourhood favourite on Bromsgrove Street. The signature pineapple fried rice comes loaded with prawns, cashew nuts and raisins — sweet, sour, savoury and aromatic in layers. Non-alcoholic lychee coolers are refreshing. Per person £10-£18, a 5-minute walk from the museum.