Llanthony Priory — described by the 12th-century chronicler Giraldus Cambrensis as "fixed among a race of barbarians," a remote sanctuary hidden deep in the Vale of Ewyas in the Black Mountains of Brecon Beacons National Park, just 9 miles from Abergavenny yet feeling utterly cut off from the world. Founded around 1100 by Norman knight William de Lacy on the site of a Celtic chapel dedicated to St David — legend says he took shelter in this ruined chapel while hunting, was "struck by a sense of piety," and devoted himself thereafter to solitary prayer and study. By 1118 it had grown into Wales' first community of Augustinian Canons Regular, at its peak blending Norman and Gothic styles in what was considered "one of the greatest buildings of medieval Wales." Yet its isolation proved both blessing and curse: attacked by local Welsh forces in 1135, the canons fled to Gloucester to found Llanthony Secunda; raided again by Owain Glyndŵr's rebels in the early 15th century; finally dissolved in 1538 during Henry VIII's Dissolution of the Monasteries, sold for £160, with remaining canons receiving pensions of £8 each. In subsequent centuries, poet Walter Savage Landor bought and attempted to restore it, abandoning the project due to financial troubles in 1814. Today, these millennium-old ruins are managed by Cadw, free to the public, their majestic arches and pointed windows still radiating a mesmerising stillness amid the valley's green. Part of the priory has been converted into the Abbey Hotel and Cellar Bar, allowing visitors to enjoy a pint of Tudor Brewery's Blorenge Golden Ale beneath thousand-year-old stone walls — one of the most unique "pub" experiences in all of Britain.
From priory ruins and cellar bar to Hatterall Ridge hiking and Gospel Pass scenic drive
Head north from Abergavenny along the A465, turning left at Llanfihangel Crucorney into the Llanthony valley — the drive itself is a ceremony of gradually unfolding scenery, the road narrowing, the hillsides closing in, until suddenly the valley opens and the priory's grey stone walls emerge against the green pastures. Spend the morning exploring the priory ruins in detail: identify the choir stalls, cloister foundations, Norman arches and Gothic window tracery, climb the remnants of the west tower for a bird's-eye view of the entire Vale of Ewyas. Don't miss St David's Church within the precinct (an 18th-century conversion of the medieval infirmary, still in use today) and the Abbey Hotel Cellar Bar right beside the ruins — stone-vaulted ceiling, flagstone floor, huge fireplace, order a pint of Blorenge Golden Ale (£5.30/pint) with a homemade lasagne, feeling time stand still beneath thousand-year-old stone walls. In the afternoon, tackle the Hatterall Ridge circular walk (8.4km/482m ascent/3-3.5 hours), starting from the priory car park, passing through Wirral Wood before steeply ascending to the ridge, then following Offa's Dyke Path southwards with panoramic views over both Wales and England — the final view looking back down at the priory ruins is breathtaking. If energy allows, drive over Gospel Pass (551m, Wales' highest public road) in the evening, stopping at the summit car park to watch the sunset, before continuing to the "book town" of Hay-on-Wye for dinner.
One of the most unique pubs in all of Britain — tucked into the cellar level of the 12th-century priory building, with a stone-vaulted ceiling, flagstone floor and a massive old fireplace creating a time-travel atmosphere. The menu focuses on locally sourced home-cooked comfort food: signature lasagne (beef slow-braised with Felinfoel Du dark beer), beef chilli cottage pie, and a generous full breakfast (available with advance ordering the night before). A wide drinks selection: Tudor Brewery's Blorenge Golden Ale (£5.30/pint), Felinfoel Du stout, Hive Mind honey mint lemonade soft drink, plus a fridge full of bottled craft beers. Open to both residents and non-residents — the warmest reward after a day's hiking. Average £10-18 per person.
A thousand-year-old inn just 4 miles from the priory, claiming to be "Wales' oldest inn" (in business on this site since 1110) and one of Britain's most famously haunted pubs — footsteps of hanged prisoners are said to still echo on the stairs. 16th-century timber framing, open fireplaces and flagstone floors exude an ancient atmosphere. The menu offers authentic Welsh pub grub: juicy lamb and ale pie, fish and chips, Sunday roasts, paired with several real ales on handpull. The perfect lunch stop on the way to the priory, or a farewell dinner before returning to Abergavenny. Average £12-20 per person.
A handmade bakery and café in the heart of the "book town" of Hay-on-Wye, the ideal rest stop after driving over Gospel Pass. Opens at 8am, serving freshly baked sourdough bread, croissants, breakfast sandwiches and speciality coffee, with tempting homemade cakes and pastries on the counter. Summer garden seating overlooks the River Wye; the cosy atmosphere by the fireplace in winter is wonderfully inviting. The perfect breakfast refuel stop before continuing to explore the Black Mountains the next day. Average £6-15 per person.
A 400-year-old stone barn conversion restaurant on the edge of the Olchon Valley east of the priory, just a few miles from Hay Bluff. The kitchen insists on using seasonal ingredients from its own kitchen garden and trusted local farms, reinterpreting Welsh country classics with a modern touch. Spring lamb, summer garden vegetables, autumn game, winter root vegetable braises — paired with Herefordshire and Welsh local cheese boards. Stone walls, oak beams and candlelight create a romantic countryside dinner atmosphere, the perfect choice for rewarding your palate after a day of in-depth priory exploration. Average £18-30 per person.